blue hour

Painting your own models is a ton of fun! Here are some things I've learned that may help you along the way.

All blue hour models are currently printed in either PLA or PVB. 
The material will have an influence on how you prep your model and how you display it afterwards. PLA can be sensitive to heat and should be kept out of direct sunlight. PVB can be smoothed with isopropyl alcohol--but be careful, if you apply too much, it can warp and degrade the figure.

Many 3D print artists begin with a layer of filler primer. 
Rustoleum 2-in-1 Automotive Primer (Filler & Sandable) is highly recommended across the hobby.

Others recommend wood filler to fill layer lines,
though this can be challenging to use with fine details. You can use a combination of wood filler and filler primer if you'd like!

After priming (or as your first step, if you choose to skip priming), you may want to sand your print. 
Most recommend wet sanding. Start light with 200 grit, move to 300, 400, and 600. For an even smoother finish, some artists will apply filler primer between each grit level.

If your model is PVB, you can smooth the print with isopropyl alcohol. I use an old (clean!) paintbrush and paint thin layers of alcohol over the print. Let each layer dry. You'll see the print get glossier and glossier with each coat. Be sure to let it dry out completely before moving to the next step. 
Note: You can also try vapor smoothing, but I haven't explored that yet. There are lots of tutorials for it! :)

Once your model is as smooth as you'd like it to be,
you'll need to give your paint something to stick to. I am partial to Liquitex gesso, but you may prefer another brand! 

Paint away! 
I paint my models with acrylic paints (largely craft paints!) and I also use colored pencil on certain details (the gesso REALLY helps here, providing some tooth for pigment to adhere to).

Once you're done painting, you will want to protect your work with a varnish or sealant.
If you're used to hobbies like this, you likely already know which products will play nicely together. If you're not sure, test your varnishes over the medium you used on a surface that isn't your model. In general, go light on layers to prevent pigments from running. More often than not, I use water-based Varathane polyurethane in gloss or matte. When the weather cooperates, I love U-Pol UV Resistant Clear Coat--if you do it well, it will be as glossy as a layer of resin!

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In general, I do not intend to put much--if any--prep work into models I list here. Preparation of 3D prints is VERY subjective; some artists paint prints straight from the printer, others want to see their reflection on the print before they begin.

I find sanding and priming to be the most tedious part of creating figurines. I would also hate to sell someone a model I personally feel is ready to paint and end with them disappointed because they have higher standards for prep work. For these reasons, I leave the prep work to you. :)

If you have any questions, feel free to reach out!